Jeremy Scott and Moschino continues their collaboration with the presentation of their FW16 collection in Milan. The collection is a mixture of hardcore and glamour, featuring burning dresses and cigarettes, ball skirts, black leather jackets and caps. For this season Jeremy Scott went back to the Nineties – the 1490’s – and stared deep into the Falò delle vanità (Bonfire of The Vanities) that befell the beautiful people of Florence.
On the night of Mardi Gras in 1497 a mob of puritanical Dominicans stormed the city, smashing and bashing objects of beauty – and objects to create beauty – that they decreed might lead unto evil.
Dresses incorporate the splintered shards of smashed gilded mirrors, or have been skewered by a grand chandelier made with crystals from Swarovski that’s crashed down from the ceiling above. Another is bedecked with the stringy innards or a brutalised grand piano.
In a technical first, a few dresses are followed by trails of smoke as they come down the runway – beneath their skirts and crinolines are integrated smoke machines.
Of course no current Moschino collection would be complete without a healthy dose of pop culture appropriation. Cigarette carton evening bags, matchbook clutch bags, pack of 20 iPhone cases and burnt-print Moschino logo T-shirts represent a dangerously addictive array of temptation.